Calixtlahuaca, known originally as “Matlatzinco”, used to be a powerful Aztec capital whose kings controlled a large territory in the Toluca Valley. The present-day archaeological site includes numerous remains of former monuments, rooms, ceramics, beads, the residential area, and the main temple, as well as various artefacts: ceramics, objects and even a sacrifice stone.
In 1930, the site had an area of 144 hectares, today it has only 116. Between 1988 and 1998 some projects have been implemented to preserve and protect the site contents. These projects included drainage requirements, levelling of some areas, site regulations, and protection against urban growth.
It is believed that initial settlers of this region were nomad natives who used to visit the site seasonally. Sometime later, the Matlatzinca arrived and founded a small settlement, to receive later cultural Toltec influence and eventually become dominated by the Aztecs at about 1476 AD.
Matlatzincas or their nomad ancestors visited this site at least 640 BCE and Otomi gatherer-hunter groups were here 3000 years ago. It is also believed that the Matlatzinca ethnic group belonged to the Nahua family that had previously invaded the territory. Among the municipalities formed were Tollocan, Tenancingo, Ocuilan, Calimaya and Tepemaxalco, the latter being the most important. In 1510 the Matlatzinca tried to end the Aztec tutelage and Moctezuma II immediately ordered the city to be destroyed. The people fled west towards Michoacán. Later, the city was repopulated by disperse groups and then concentrated on agriculture and farming, as well as rearing of several species of animals.
The Matlatzinca region was considered to have been a corm producer, and this may have been the main reason for the continued invasions from the Epiclassical period (the classic period of Mesoamerica includes the years from 250 to 900 CE), first by the Toltecs and subsequently by the Chalcas tribe in the 12th century.
Matlatzinca region was divided into three Altepetls (local, ethnically based political entities), two of which were prepared to remain independent and possibly associate with the Tarascans of Michoacán, but a third Altepetl (Tollocan) wanted an association with the Aztecs. Axayacatl, the sixth Aztec Emperor (1469-1481), fought against Cuextapalin, a Mazatleca general, trying unsuccessfully to take him prisoner. Later the Aztecs returned with the Tollocan “kingdom” (Mexica ally) and fought against Matlatzinca in 1474, taking 11,070 prisoners to be sacrificed in Tenochtitlan, preventing further uprisings in the region, as well as relocating Nahuas families to Calixtlahuaca. From 1482 to 1484, there was another Matlatzinca rebellion attempt, but Tizoc, the seventh Emperor, destroyed the Calixtlahuaca temples, marking his victory on a stone. The last rebellion attempt occurred in 1510. The Aztec Tlatoani, Moctezuma II, ordered the destruction of the area, which led to the emigration of its inhabitants to Michoacán.
The site includes over 17 structures. These are residential areas and temples, the most significant of which are a circular temple dedicated to the Aztec wind god Ehecatl, and a large royal “palace”. Mesoamerican round buildings are generally related to Ehecatl. The circle is a perfect geometric figure, having no beginning or end, being therefore infinite, as the gods.
The building, which was apparently dedicated to the cult of Quetzalcoatl (“The Feathered Serpent”), is considered to be the most important building in the site. It is a large circular temple with four construction stages. There is also another temple, located within a large plaza, with a single stairway. It forms part of a group in a plaza, with a cross altar decorated with skulls. At the northern side of the plaza is a cross altar with skulls carved in stone and embedded around the structure. Originally there were more than ten skulls, today there are only two original and a replica of the third. Another monument comprises the remains of a large basement, about 85 metres wide and 100 metres long.
The so-called Pantheon includes approximately 50 human graves, which were found there with offerings (gold, ceramic, rocks of obsidian, and arrowheads.) These structures were built on a large terrace and there are remains of seven bases. East of the main structure, there is a hallway at the southeast corner. It contains three petroglyphs (or pictogram and logogram images).
The so-called “monument 17” is in reality a complex which is believed to have been the Royal Palace in the city. It is the same type as other Aztec palaces. Altogether it has 32 rooms, an original adobe wall, interior corridors and access stairs to different levels.
The complex can be divided into four main parts: a residential area on the south side of the complex, a ceremonial area with a temple and main basement, a wide plaza in front, and bases on the west side area. The residential area can be subdivided into two sub-areas, separated (east and west) by the adobe wall. It is believed to have been built during the last Mexica occupation, in the late Postclassical period. It has three entrances, one from the west, with communication corridors to the various areas and access to the private housing compound, which has a series of rooms around an internal private patio. This area can also be accessed from the southeast corner of the site. A third entrance provides access to the ceremonial area or the main square. All rooms had stuccoed floors, built over gravel placed on a compacted fill surface. Additionally, every room had a square sunken hole, with charcoal remains, that probably were used for heating, cooking or burning ritual copal. The main temple within the palace has the characteristics of a ceremonial plaza. There are three stairways to access the top, divided by smooth slopped wall sections (alfardas). The central and most important entrance is approximately 10 metres wide, and lateral stairways are 6 metres wide. It is thought that there were at least three temples at the top. Remains of a stuccoed floor can be seen on top.
García Payón, an archaeologist who excavated Calixtlahuaca in the 1930s, found burials containing ceramic, very similar to vessels from several Teotihuacán stages. There is also a group of Oaxaca vessels – five shaped as jaguar paw, another with a Zapotec glyph. Some of them are made with the characteristic grey clay of that region.
One of the objects excavated by García Payon is the sculpture of a priest with a mask of the God Ehecatl. This object is one of the best-known sculptures of the Mexica style. The presences of the vessels and ceramic materials confirm the importance of trade practices within these regions, during the Classical and Postclassical periods. The largest ceramic objects group is “Malacates”, and more than 50% of these are large Malacates used for spinning maguey fibre. There are 32 maguey de-fibres, as well as 81 copper objects; it is one of the largest collections outside the Tarascan territory. Other Calixtlahuaca copper objects exist in the United States, for example, in the American Museum of Natural History in New York City. Additionally, among the objects excavated on the site are 366 green glass beads and the collection of 23 shells objects with holes.