General Information

Located just south-east of the historic centre of Mexico City, the traditional market Mercado de Sonora specialises in a variety of merchandise, such as pottery, party items, and live animals, and the two which make it notable: herbal medicine products and items related to magic and the occult.

Additional Information

Mercado de Sonora was one of many public markets established by the city government in the 1950s, along with others, such as Mercado Jamaica and the La Merced market in order to improve and regulate retail commerce. The market has derived from tianguis – street market tradition which still continues. The market was originally set up with a large parking area for cars, but over time this space dwindled as the market grew.

Features and facilities: highlights

The market building consists of a single large nave mostly constructed of metal. Inside, there are a number of narrow aisles containing stalls owned or rented by individual merchants. Most merchants are grouped by the type of merchandise they sell, such as party supplies, dishes, and pets. Outside there are also street vendors.

Medicinal Herbs and Magical Items: Highlights

What makes this market different and famous are the aisles dedicated to medicinal plants, magic and the occult, the two located in the back of the large nave. This part of the market attracts customers from all socioeconomic levels, as well as tourists, and it is promoted in various guide books.

Medicinal Herbs and Magical Items: Explained

The two types of products, herbal medicines and magical/occult items, are not completely separate, as for centuries traditional Mexican herbal medicine has been strongly linked with religious and magic practices. The variety of medicinal plants sold is vast and includes avocado leaves for inflammations, chiranthodendron for the heart, jacaranda flowers for the stomach and more. You may also find dried rattlesnake, which is considered a medicine against cancer, dried skunk to “strengthen the blood,” and starfish. Plant items more strongly associated with magic and religion include crosses of ocote wood for good luck, chains of garlic to ward off evil and deer eyes to protect against the “evil eye”. The market also sells occult items related to magic (white and black), pre-Hispanic religious and magical traditions, Santería, the cult of Santa Muerte, shamanism, and various others, which demonstrate the syncretism of beliefs and practices that exist in the city. Items for sale include amulets, horseshoes, candles in different sizes, shapes and colours, with many of the colours serving very specific functions, gold dust, black salt, powders of unknown ingredients, “water of Saint Ignatius” to ward off unwanted attention, aromatic lotions and soaps, many of which are related to love spells and others.

Cartonería: Highlights

The market and the area around it are also known for the production of large and small paper sculptures called cartonería. The tradition of creating figures and other decoration for use in community festivals goes back hundreds of years.

Cartonería: Explained

The busiest times for cartonería artists are the Day of the Dead, when the demand for decorations, especially skeletons is the highest, and the Holy Week, when evil “Judases” are traditionally burned. The Judas figurines are inspired by the disciple who betrayed Jesus, but according to tradition, they are considered to be depictions of the devil. Other disliked figures, however, can also be burned in effigy. These include political figures, especially those who have been involved in some recent corruption scandal.

Products Sold: Highlights

Besides magical items, medicinal herbs and unique paper sculptures, the market is also known for other products dedicated to various specialties, such as pottery and dishes for everyday use, toys and party favours, as well as live animals.

Products Sold: Explained

The areas dedicated to pottery and dishes for everyday use offer such products as plates, bowls, jars for atole, coffee cups, large platters and more. While traditional pottery still dominates, it is interspersed with cheaper glass items as well. Another traditional area sells toys and party favours. Traditional wooden, cloth and clay toys can still be found, although they are slowly being replaced with cheaper plastic ones. These include dolls, tops, yo-yos, cup-and-balls and many more. This area also carries party supplies such as hats, decorations and piñatas, mostly for children’s events. There is also a section that sells live animals, from chicks, puppies, kittens, to toucans, parrots, hamsters, full grown roosters and hens, ducks, rabbits and various species of snakes. There are also some exotic species, including those in danger of extinction, which has caused the police to raid the market several times.

Interesting Facts

What makes Mercado de Sonora different and famous are the aisles dedicated to medicinal plants, magic and the occult, the two located in the back of the large nave.

The market and the area around it are also known for the production of large and small paper sculptures called cartonería. The tradition of creating figures and other decoration for use in community festivals goes back hundreds of years.